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2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman All4: Suspension Walkaround

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What does it take to turn a Mini Cooper into a Mini Cooper Countryman? I jacked up our 2011 Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 to find out.

The 2001 Mini Countryman goes by the engineering code name R60, while the regular 2nd-gen Cooper on which it is based is known as the R56.

Here's a quick spec comparison:

Compared to a Cooper S, our Countryman is...

  • 15 inches longer than a Cooper S
  • 4.1 inches wider
  • 6.1 inches taller

Furthermore, the Countryman's... 

  • wheelbase is 5.1 inches longer
  • front track is 2.8 inches wider
  • rear track is 3.6 inches wider
  • weight is 385 pounds higher than a Cooper S (front-drive Countryman)
  • All4 hardware adds another 111 pounds

Despite these differences, there are plenty of similarities in the suspension, which is based on the same basic design philosophy, front and rear. Most of the specific parts are different, though, because of the added weight, higher stance and the four-wheel drive system.

As you check out the pictures after the jump, feel free to compare them to those of an R56 Mini, in this case our dear departed Mini E.

On with the show...

 

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Right away, we can see a similar-looking front strut setup. But there are some differences.

For one, the front hubs are beefier, employing five lugs instead of the regular Mini's four. The whole thing looks to be taller, too. Not surprising, really, when you consider that the Countryman's nominal front suspension ride height is 1.8 inches higher than that of the R56 Cooper.

 

 

 

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I asked a Mini representative if the 2.8-inch increase in front track width was dues to longer lower control arms (yellow), a wider front subframe (white) or a bit of both. I was told, "a little of all of the above including wheel/tire configuration."

The Countryman's wheel offset is only 2mm larger than that of a Cooper, so the wheel/tire contribution is but a small fraction. The lower control arm and subframe are behind most of it.

And that lower control arm (yellow) is forged steel here instead of stamped steel in the R56.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_knuckle.jpg 

The forged lower arm has a distinctive kink (yellow) that improves clearance underneath; the part that loops down to the ball joint (green) is inside the wheel where it is protected.

This material change required a new ball joint design, but it is stall easily replaceable because of the new way it bolts to the new knuckle (white).

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_oa_low_rr_larm.jpg 

As before, the front end of the lower control arm pivots on a rigid ball and socket joint (pillow ball, in JDM lingo) for good lateral suspension stiffness.

The Countryman's front stabilizer bar measures 22 mm in diameter, a half-millimeter larger than the R56 Cooper. The sport package, which this particular Countryman has, uses a 23 mm diameter front bar and sits 10 mm lower than a standard Countryman.

To the surprise of no one, the Countryman sticks with a rear-mounted steering rack (white), and, like the Cooper, it's still an electric power steering unit with a 14:1 steering ratio.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_EPS.jpg 

Here we can see that the Mini's EPS unit is column mounted, but very low down, right above the point where the pinion gear intersects the rack. What this means is that most of the conventional steering shaft and u-joints sits unfiltered on the driver's side of the EPS unit, which imparts a degree of authentic mechanical feel.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_spring.jpg 

Our Countryman's suspension still imparts the feel of a Mini, but the higher ride height and the longer suspension travel it permits does allow the suspension to breath more and hammer your backside less. I thought it did quite well on the washboard dirt roads on the way to the Holy Jim Trail a few weeks back.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_brk.jpg 

Like the Cooper, the Countryman uses single-piston sliding front calipers, but the diameter of the ventilated front rotors is up by a half-inch to 12.1 inches.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_fr_brk_2.jpg 

This view shows the wire leading from the electronic pad wear sensor.

 

 

 

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Yes, the ducts in the front bumper are functional, and they direct air directly to those brakes.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_oa_4.jpg 

The basic layout of the Countryman's suspension is the same as that of the Cooper. There's an aluminum trailing arm (black) and two diagonally-mounted semi-trailing links (yellow).

But like the front, the body rides higher here than it does in a Cooper. Measured from the lower rim flange to the top of the fender opening, a Countryman sits 2.1 inches higher in back than a regular Mini.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_tarm_under.jpg 

The Countryman's rear trailing arm (yellow) is a convoluted forged aluminum piece and it pivots on an angled axis that points in the general direction of the pivot axis of the two semi-trailing links.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_larm_rr_low_rr.jpg 

According to Mini, the two semi-trailing links shown here share their part numbers with the links on the R56 Cooper, but the subframe to which the inner ends (yellow) are bolted is unique on the Countryman. The track width is 3.6 inches wider back here, so these left side pivot points almost certainly sit farther away from those on the right side.

Note also that the lower link is slightly longer than the top link, and that allows a favorable increase in negative camber as the suspension is loaded in turns.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_stabilnk_2.jpg 

The regular Cooper and Countryman use a 16 mm rear stabilizer bar, though the shape of the bar isn't quite the same. A Countryman with the Sport package gets a 17 mm rear bar, the same size as the R56 Cooper S. The R56 Cooper S with a sport package gets an 18 mm bar.

You can't quite compare the two because other dimensions besides the diameter come into play, dimensions we don't quite know. It's likely that the Countryman's stabilizer bar produces a bit less roll stiffness because you wouldn't want too much rigidity in a car with more suspension travel and mild off-road capability.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_knuckle_under_2.jpg 

The stabilizer bar's end link (yellow) and the coil-over shock (white) both bolt directly to the trailing arm. All in all, the Mini's rear suspension packaging is pretty clean, with few parts and a lot of open space for the addition of rear drive axles.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_brk_2.jpg 

The Countryman's rear brake calipers are of the single-piston sliding variety. You can see where the hydraulic supply line (white) and the brake bleeder fitting come in to the piston chamber, but a cable-operated mechanical ratchet is used to push the piston when setting the parking brake.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_rr_brk_4.jpg 

Like the R56, The R60 Countryman's rear brake rotors are non-ventilated. But these 11.0-inch rotors are 0.8 inches larger than those on a Cooper.

 

 

 

2011_mini_1600_sus_oa_tire.jpg 

Goodyear Efficient Grip run-flat tires are fitted to our Countryman S, and the size is 225/45R18 on account of the sport package. They weigh 57.5 pounds mounted and ready to go. The standard tire size for the Countryman and Countryman S is 205/55R17.

As run-flats go, these feel reasonably compliant on broken surfaces. Still, I don't like the idea of RFTs on anything with even the barest amount of off-road capability. Cars like the Countryman really can be driven farther off the beaten path, which means farther away from tire stores within run-flat range.

Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Testing

Categories: ,

22 Comments

app5 says:

09:59 PM, 05/22/11

These are my favorite articles. Thank you and keep it up!

007Solace says:

12:35 AM, 05/23/11

BMW DNA. That's good for suspension.But with that you get those crappy overpriced run flat tires. At least Audi/VW give you the option of a spare tire. Talk about cheap cost cutting.
Good write up as usual.

juan_mx says:

06:32 AM, 05/23/11

...... lug bolts, again!

Good job, your walkarounds contain lot of information, thank you!

Any chance to do a walkaround for the 2011 Jetta TDI?

banhugh says:

06:43 AM, 05/23/11

Lets face it. Nobody's going to take a $40k+ (Enter Model Here) new "offroad" SUV care anywhere near gravel...

jbaker21 says:

07:43 AM, 05/23/11

@banhugh

I would taka a $40k vehicle offroading; as long as it has the offroad capabilities.

silverstang1 says:

08:14 AM, 05/23/11

banhugh: so you are one of those guys that wouldnt take a Raptor offroading even though it has so many hours invested in it to make it offroad worthy?

ptcdawg says:

08:21 AM, 05/23/11

I'm thinking the AWD would be used to get to various ski resorts than anything else....

fundango says:

08:56 AM, 05/23/11

Nice write-up, as always...

minibro77 says:

09:46 AM, 05/23/11

I would like to see this setup compared to the Juke. Just curious about how the difference in price of these two vehicle equates below the skin?

jukiemcjuke says:

10:58 AM, 05/23/11


I second minibro77's proposal.

sergiosveron says:

12:40 PM, 05/23/11

it's the same layout as the regular Mini and by the way i love this articles

banhugh says:

01:34 PM, 05/23/11

@silverstang1:
No, I would not spend $40k for an offroad vehicle. I would buy a *used* Jeep Wrangler/Cherokee

Of course it all depends on people's disposable income. Californians such as yours truly must be rich!

banhugh says:

02:04 PM, 05/23/11

@silverstang1: I would take the Raptor, the Clubman or even the M56 through the Grand Canyon for fun any day if somebody else pays for it!!!

silverstang1 says:

02:24 PM, 05/23/11

Banhugh: ah, I see what you are saying. I for one am looking at getting a Raptor and will take it offroad as much as possible. Its what it is made for. Im not gunna wait for it to get old just to take it offroading lol

cjsg35 says:

02:48 PM, 05/23/11

When do we get a Juke walk around =) love reading them lol

lautomobile says:

05:02 PM, 05/23/11

Keep the suspension walkarounds coming! Definitely one of the reasons I check this site daily.

v8vader says:

06:02 PM, 05/23/11

i third minibro77's proposal and would like to pose another question about the Juke:

since the Juke is offered with different rear suspension setups, what is the effect on the rear subframe? is the subframe different between the two models (FWD and AWD) to allow for this?


these are always great! you should start yanking the engines and doing powertrain walkarounds lol O=)

rotorhead01 says:

09:08 PM, 05/24/11

Mr Edmunds,

I enjoyed the article. In the interests of safety, please chock the rear wheel next time you do a "Suspension Walkaround" on your drive-way.

flormatt says:

08:29 AM, 05/27/11

Great write up, you might want to use some wheel chocks on that angled driveway though...

kgelner says:

08:56 PM, 05/29/11

I disagree about using run-flats for offroad driving.

First of all, the recommended range is 90 miles at 50mph. Where in the U.S. can you even go offroading more than 90 miles from a conventional road?

Secondly, those recommendations are very conservative. I have accidentally driven a totally empty runflat between 75-80 MPH for 20-30 miles because I didn't notice the flat tire indicator. Similarly, you can probably go a lot longer than 90 miles on a totally flat tire - especially if you are going slowly on on unpaved road, but even on a paved road it's not like the tire will magically vanish at the 90 mile mark.

Runflats are great at one thing - getting you to some place where it's a lot more pleasant to change a tire, or where you can get/call for help. I keep runflats on my Countryman precisely because I plan to drive a lot of back country forest roads (I live in Colorado) and I value that ability.

And for those that doubt people take the Countryman on gravel roads:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/5674031178/in/set-72157626492622901

That was day after I picked up the car...

I'm not insane. I know I'm not going on any serious Jeep trails with it. But there are many, many other back roads in Colorado and Utah where a Countryman will do just fine with careful driving (and possibly a skid plate).

hammamini says:

02:33 PM, 05/31/11

You and I have the same expectations for our ALL4s. I fully expect to get the tires dirty, and frequently. I know it's not a Hummer, but that doesn't mean it should always carefully tiptoe down the tarmac.

For Dan Edmunds: After taking the suspension apart, can you say what the available wheel travel in the ALL4 is, and how does that compare with the earlier MINIs?

sirbikes says:

08:04 PM, 05/31/11

Thanks Dan. Do you have any photos of the CM on the road to Holy Jim? I used to drive my Xterra back there but if you can get a CM through that that's pretty awesome because those are a bit more than just your average gravel road, especially after a rain.

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