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2004 Toyota Prius: Speed Oil Change

2004_Prius_1600_speedoil_lead.jpg 

The weather in Yorba Linda was smoking hot this weekend. If I was going to change the oil and filter on our 2004 Toyota Prius, it was in my best interest to get it done quickly, before the sun got too high in the sky.

That was OK by me. I've never actually timed myself. I'm usually too busy taking pictures or video along the way to be truly fast. How long does it take me to do a basic oil and filter change when I'm not trying to film it?

Here are the rules: 1) I'd follow the same steps outlined in my last Prius oil change video, but I'd reset the "Maint Reqd" light after time stopped so I could go inside and wash my hands thoroughly before touching too much of the interior. 2) Before time started, I could lay out all the needed tools in one spot about 5 or 6 feet from the car, but I could not pre-stage them in the exact spot they'd be needed. 3) I couldn't open the hood or jack the car until after time started. 4) I couldn't stop the clock until after the hood was closed and the car was back on the ground. 5) Tool clean-up, also off the clock, would wait until I had a tall glass of water and changed the oil in my wife's minivan, as well.

These are the rules. Place your bets.

 

2004_Prius_1600_speedoil_time.jpg 

I thought I was going to break 10 minutes, but the end-driven oil filter wrench got hung up and wouldn't come off, the oil went in slower than expected and I fumbled the iPhone timer and lost a couple of seconds trying to stop the clock.

Next time.

Total cost: $21.69 ($19.99 plus tax). They were having an oil and filter special at my local Autozone: 5 quarts of Valvoline and a Fram filter. The Prius only takes 4 quarts, so I've got one left for next time.

 

Dan Edmunds, DIrector of Vehicle Testing @ 84,560 miles

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16 Comments

7driver says:

10:36 PM, 09/26/10

Did you use the Fram ExtraGuard, ToughGuard, XtendedGaurd or High-Mileage? I've heard a lot of rumblings in the forums about cardboard endcaps in the Fram ExtraGuard instead of metal endcaps. The additives they use in the High-Mileage product don't seem to be getting any raves either.

wrinklebump says:

11:33 PM, 09/26/10

Fram is possibly the only company I feel an unbreakable brand loyalty to

sodaguy says:

11:38 PM, 09/26/10

I saw at the autozone that they had a special for 5 qts of Valvoline Maxlife oil and a Fram Tough Guard oil filter. There is nothing wrong with that combination.

Wow, the last oil change that Dan did was at about 69k. This one is at 84.5k-- which is more than 15k later. I sure hope that someone had another oil change (or two) done during that "mileage accumulation duty."

ms3fun says:

04:39 AM, 09/27/10

@ wrinklebump:

You should definitely over think your brand loyalty to Fram. They used to make good filters, but the ExtraGuard is about the worst oil filter sold today. The ToughGuard is ok, but the XtendedGaurd has Teflon in it, which even DuPont says should not be used as an engine additive.

For anybody interested at how different brand oil filters look on the inside, here are some good sites:
(The guy who did the work is not affiliated with any of the brands)

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html

ms3fun says:

04:49 AM, 09/27/10

Hey Dan, that's a pretty good time.
If you get tired of reviewing and driving a bunch of cars, you have a stellar career at a Jiffy Lube ahead of you :)

vvk says:

06:20 AM, 09/27/10

For many cars I will use only OEM filters. They cost pretty much the same and seem to be made significantly better. Some fit much better, too.

Aftermarket oil filters often do not conform to manufacturer specs. For example, Subaru oil filters have 23 psi by-pass valves. All aftermarket filters have 9-10 psi by-pass valves because they are shared with other cars, so lowest common denominator is used.

actualsize says:

07:24 AM, 09/27/10

Yeah, it's a ToughGuard filter. I use dealer-bought OE filters when I can, and by that I mean if the parts department is open when I'm in the mood to do an oil change.

ms3fun says:

08:02 AM, 09/27/10

Dan,
If you look at the link I provided, it seems that not all OEM's make their own filters, especially not MOPAR. They seem to contract with any of the aftermarket companies that offers them the best price.
Even the Motorcraft was a Purolator filter with a different logo on the case.

kevm14 says:

10:28 AM, 09/27/10

AC Delcos are good. So are Napa Gold (Wix). Mobil 1 are also good, but pricey. I never use Fram.

inlinesix says:

03:55 PM, 09/27/10

I never use Fram either. They have some cheapest cardboard components and thin, loosely packed filter element. I'll pay for better.

fushigi says:

06:54 PM, 09/27/10

Hmm. My dealer is $34.95 for a LOF but there's always at least a $5 coupon available. So, for the extra $8ish I'll let them handle the changes. While they do that I'll sit in the customer lounge, enjoy some coffee, and take advantage of the free WiFi or read a book for a few minutes.

I'll gladly exchange the do-it-yourself satisfaction for comfort & clean hands. And it doesn't hurt to build a documented service history should there be a warranty concern in later years.

viss1 says:

06:38 AM, 09/28/10

@fushigi - I'd rather spend 20 minutes in my driveway getting slightly dirty than spend close to an hour driving to the dealer, waiting for them to do the oil change, and driving back home. Plus if I do it myself it's not at the mercy of the beginner tech the dealership put on oil change duty. And all the free coffee and WiFi in the world doesn't change the fact that you're still sitting around in a waiting room.

As for the article, the only problem with rushing an oil change is you probably aren't giving all the heavier particles enough time to drain from the pan.

bigmik1021 says:

08:23 AM, 09/28/10

The oil change place I go to is $22 with a coupon, and I'm usually in and out in 15 or 20. I also can watch to make sure it is done right.

fushigi says:

02:20 PM, 09/28/10

@viss1 - The drive to the dealer and the drive to the parts store even out. Well, not really. If you dispose of your used oil safely & legally then you're making another trip to the dropoff place.

The time spent doing the change + in the parts store isn't but a few minutes shorter than the time I spend in the waiting room. Oil changes don't take that long. Still, if I didn't want to hang around I wouldn't have to. Even for minor things like oil changes my dealer's service dept. will shuttle me back home or anywhere else within reason.

Even the beginner tech is going to have more training than I ever will.

When I was younger, basic car maintenance was an interesting diversion. As I mature (enter middle age) it's become just another chore. Since the costs are close enough to the same, I choose to let someone else handle it. Consider it just another little way of supporting the local economy.

inlinesix says:

03:29 PM, 09/28/10

@fushigi

That mentality works unless you use quality oil and filters. Try getting a Mobile1 full synthetic change with a high quality filter for $30... last quick lube place I checked charged $80. Also you can keep your own maintenance record and a dealer has to provide maintenance work with your receipts.

fushigi says:

06:28 AM, 09/29/10

The dealer will charge more for synthetic that the local shop, sure. Premium product earns premium pricing.

But why would I use synthetic? I can go 7500 miles between oil changes on traditional oil and that's how often I want the tires rotated. Since the service intervals match up there's no particular advantage to the longer interval that synthetic allows.

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