Home

Long-Term Road Tests

Daily updates on our fleet of cars and trucks

1994 Mazda MX-5 Miata: Overhauled Suspension

overall_blog.jpg 

Ditching Project Miata's stock suspension wasn't a tough decision. The tepid roll stiffness and tired dampers meant that when driven over bumps of any significance, the car was constantly bouncing off the bump stops. And although you could sense the underlying Miata goodess, it was covered in a thick layer of suck.

The colorful bits you see above -- Fat Cat Motorsports coilovers, a Racing Beat tubular stabilizer bar and 949 Racing endlinks -- represent a first step in eradicating the suck.

Hit the jump to see what they're all about.

Now, it isn't unusual for stock cars to employ the bump stops as supplement spring rate to the coil springs, but we're talking 1994. Bump stop technology had some way to go. An NA Miata's bump stops were made of hard rubber. Not quite hockey puck material, but getting there.

Together with the scarce bump travel of a stock Miata's suspension, the effective spring rate goes from very soft to holy crap in a hurry. This nonlinearity in spring rate makes for a car that is bump-sensitive, a situation that has obvious ride and handling implications particularly when the dampers are worn.

Fat Cat Motorsports Coilovers

Fat Cat Motorsports (FCM) coilovers address the Miata's inherent issue of limited travel from a number of angles.

project miata fat cat motorsports bump stop upper hat.jpg First, the upper shock mounts use a later Miata (NB) configuration, which locates the bump stop higher, allowing for more bump travel.

These bump stops are also shorter than stock and made of a material that provides a more progressive increase in spring rate than the hard stock units.

And of course, the higher coil spring rates do a better job of preventing the suspension from bottoming in the first place. Our FCM coilovers have 425 lb/in front and 300 lb/in rear spring rates, which get us in our 2.0 Hz ride frequency ballpark.

With the increase in bump travel allowed by the FCM coilovers, we've lowered the car by about an inch to bring the center of gravity down a bit. Lowering is a tricky subject -- lower a Miata that still has the stock upper shock mounts & bump stops and you'll pound your kidneys out. Plus, go too low and bump steer can become an issue, never mind scraping everywhere.

With these coilovers, an inch is groovy. I can deal with that. It'll look better too, so Oldham will be happy.

project miata fat cat motorsports coilovers.jpg Stock dampers are a twin-tube design, while the FCM shocks are custom-valved Bilstein monotubes. Monotubes have a larger piston area, which allows them to generate meaningful damping force at very small shock movements. In other words, the shocks can actually damp those movements, improving control.

Monotubes also dissipate heat better, which reduces damper fade that can occur when driving over rough surfaces. Probably not an issue on a smooth track, but nice to have on, say, the road to Mount Gleason, a rough, unmaintained stretch of tarmac that's one of our faves.

Unsatisfied with the valving on the stock Bilsteins that came on certain NA Miatas, revalving has allowed FCM to tailor the damper force as they see fit. These coilovers are FCM's entry-level offering and so the dampers have fixed valving, i.e. compression and rebound are not adjustable.

project miata fat cat motorsports coilover detail.jpg In case you're wondering what the heck this little dongas on the shock body is all about, it's a shrader valve that FCM uses to pressurize the dampers after they revalve them.

Basically, the sole adjustment on our FCM coilovers is via the threaded lower perches, which let you corner-balance the car and adjust the ride height. FCM's hex key adjuster is a bit fiddly but workable.

Racing Beat Tubular Stabilizer Bar

project miata racing beat swaybar 54105.jpg Trimming out the roll couple is a tubular front stabilizer bar by Racing Beat. It's big and red, about 3x stiffer than stock yet weighs about a half-pound less than the stock unit. Hollowness has its advantages.

The bar includes urethane bushings that are less squishy than the stock ones, which help the bar transfer load more effectively.

We currently have the stock rear bar (aka paper clip) on the car, as the roll couple in this configuration is pretty close to the stock balance.

949Racing Adjustable End Links

project miata 949 endlinks overall.jpg Speaking of stock bushings, the 949Racing end links replace the stock fixed-length jobs. That's cool since the bushings were being extruded out of our stock end links.

The metal spherical bearing eliminates a source of squish, which promises to make the front suspension react more precisely to steering inputs.

In addition, these end links allow you to remove preload from the stabilizer bar. Preload can result in uneven roll stiffness left to right and/or increase the susceptibility to brake lockup on the more loaded side.

project miata 949 endlinks det.jpg Really, only one side needs to be adjustable to accomplish the preload removal, but there's no sense keeping a squishy stock end link on the other side. Especially since these are sold in pairs.

Cool details -- each rod end has opposite threading so you can just loosen the jam nuts and turn the center turnbuckle to adjust the length -- no need to disconnect the bearing ends. The conical spacers allow for maximum articulation without binding. And note the dust seals between the bearing and the conical spacers. These will help the bearings live a longer life.

Lots of impressions and track testing in the weeks and months to come. This will be fun.

Jason Kavanagh, Engineering Editor

 

Speed Source

Fat Cat Motorsports

Fixed-adjustment coilovers, MSRP $1,698

408.221.8247

 

Racing Beat

Tubular stabilizer bar #54105, MSRP $150

714.779.8677  

 

949Racing

Adjustable end links, MSRP $89.95/pr

949.716.3111

Categories:

15 Comments

dino6 says:

09:30 PM, 05/12/10

Thank you, thank you. My '94 Miata garage queen project car is awaiting your test results. Good job boys.

hurls65 says:

10:32 PM, 05/12/10

Cool... will be watching this, as I've still got the original springs/sway bar and some old-ish shocks on my 90...

Any thoughts on doing the bushings on this car? That's something that might be getting worn out at this point on yours too...

I think a full suspension walkaround is in order too, huh? :)

msh1 says:

04:51 AM, 05/13/10

Nice choices. The old Miata will feel like a new car after this.

Are you doing the suspension work yourself? I'm a DIY-er, but I've always HATED suspension work.

jasond52 says:

05:13 AM, 05/13/10

Waiting for the SBC...

roadburner says:

07:33 AM, 05/13/10

A lot of bang for the buck there, I'll bet...

yellowmiata says:

07:48 AM, 05/13/10

Thanks for a really informative write-up. Its nice to know the thought that goes behind the choices.
Kevin

cowwong says:

08:40 AM, 05/13/10

The best long-term car! Learn alot from this post and the previous post.

maxedoutmax says:

10:24 AM, 05/13/10

Wow the shocks/coils cost more than the car lol!

joefrompa says:

10:55 AM, 05/13/10

I'm betting that those coilovers at stock ride height would be dreamy ride quality-wise. That's ALOT of suspension travel to give up given the already low nature of the car, and with better bump stops and dampers....well, an 1" is a mile in that suspension setup.

Of course, that's not what you are doing in there and that's fine. It was just my comment :)

Awesome, awesome write up. Please do more.

e36_guy says:

12:03 PM, 05/13/10

I'm following this project closely. I'd love to see more project car blogs like this on Inside Line. Keep up the good work, guys!

moar_revs says:

01:02 PM, 05/13/10

Good stuff! Looking forward to how it translates into improved performance.

I find it amusing to mention the monotube construction of the shocks as a real "upgrade." A twin-tube would work just as well if it were valved similarly, and really both construction methods have their pros and cons. But based on the FCM literature from the other post touting how monotube construction equals the "perfect shock," I guess it's no surprise that it shows up here. To me, if a shock damps the way it was made to damp, then it's good, regardless of its construction.

ethanp71 says:

01:35 PM, 05/13/10

Really wish I had gone with this setup when I had my 92 Miata. Instead, I opted for some slightly stiffer springs and shocks just to save a few bucks. I seriously regret that decision, but the car is sold now.

carlisimo says:

01:37 PM, 05/13/10

I have an NB lowered a little less than an inch, and I already have to crawl at an angle over speed bumps. It doesn't even LOOK low, but I couldn't go any lower and stay sane (and that's before starting to worry about the short suspension travel). That's the great negative to Miata suspensions.

It's not like pre-2001 Civics that you could lower by inches and still have enough travel for handling to get better and better.

Nice parts though. I went with the cheaper of the TEIN coilovers and their strangely oversteery 7/6 kg/mm front/rear springs (392/336 lb/in). I disconnected the rear sway bar and I'm pretty happy with them.

nasag03 says:

03:05 PM, 05/25/10

Are you planning on upgrading or at least renewing the other suspension components, i.e. rubber bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc? As I've learned on my E36 BMW, those goodies can make just as much of a difference in handling as the more well-known mods.

mindspin311 says:

12:00 AM, 03/25/11

Getting pretty much the exact same setup in a few weeks! STOKED!

Add a comment

Advertisement

Latest Poll

My next car will have:

Advertisement

Tip the Editors

Got a breaking news tip for the Inside Line editors?

Send it to tips@edmunds.com

Awards

min's Best of the Web award

Past Vehicles

Browse Archives