2010 Mazdaspeed 3: It's the Thought That Counts?

No way, it comes with a brushed metal oil cap? Cool. But... but... does that mean there aren't any $70 ones in the accessories catalog that I can order? *glaring in the direction of Scion*

Who wants to join me in a pool about how long until someone sues Mazda for a hot oil-filler cap? I say 6 months.

I use the paper towels provided by the gas station. They provide enough insulation to get the hot metal cap (on my '89 Volvo) loose. As a bonus it keeps my hands clean even when I'm adding oil through a boring black cap on some otehr car.

@ colorado kid: Good idea, except this gas station was out of paper towels. Even the squeegee fluid reservoirs were dry. I went inside and pleaded for some Windex on the grounds that the dealer was about to make $45 off me for premium unleaded. - Erin R

My '04 Mazdaspeed Miata had the same cap, but in silver. Oh, and it didn't have the oil weight on it either. Just the clean Mazdaspeed name across it... and it looked wonderful contrasting against the red wrinkle finish on the shapely valve cover. I miss that car... Anyway, I always had some rags in the trunk, so removing the oil cap wasn't a problem when it was hot. I guess it's just a habit from owning an MG Midget... always be prepared, because British sports cars were always very reliable... at breaking down. Constantly.

Wow, first oil change at 7500 miles. I'm used to turbo cars needing oil changes about twice as often (at least, my WRX and previous Legacy GT did). Any thoughts about this?

Oh, I forgot to add (edit option, please!) that I found a Mazdaspeed box in the trunk of my Mazdaspeed Miata when I first brought it home. The box was for the Mazdaspeed oil cap, and inside was the regular plastic cap that was installed at the factory. The Mazdaspeed oil cap was installed at the port, along with a few other Mazdaspeed-specific cosmetics.

Add this entry into the "manufacturer is damned if they do and damned if they don't" category.

Personally I like that little extra detail and for the record I think the majority of people who would peridocially check/add oil would: 1. have a rag in the trunk; 2. wait for the engine to cool a bit before opening it up. my 2008 MS3 had the same cap and I never once burned myself checking/refilling oil. Exactly what would you use to wipe the dip stick anyway? Cloth rag, paper towel? I'd argue that you need a rag to check oil anyway. Hence you would have the means to insulate your hand form the hot/warm cap.

Please let's not criticize manufacturers for giving us more than we expect. In this case some common sense applies to those who choose to check "hot oil".

:-)

@ ocramidajzj: Points taken, though I wouldn't exactly call this a critical entry on the metal cap, considering the loving photo of said cap at the top of the post.

I had a used napkin in my pocket which I'd used to wipe the dipstick. I used it "hold" the cap, which is why there's a an oil smudge on the cap if you look closely. -- Erin

I think it's a nice touch.

I wonder if most are like jstandefer's experience. He had a plastic one in the trunk. If he wanted, he could put that back.

"Wow, first oil change at 7500 miles. I'm used to turbo cars needing oil changes about twice as often (at least, my WRX and previous Legacy GT did). Any thoughts about this?"

I use a 5,000 mile oil change interval(using Mobil 1 5W-30) on my 2007 MS3. I have a used oil analysis(UOA) performed at every change. At 52,000 the wear metal numbers and Total Base Number(additive package) indicate that a 5,000 interval is a bit conservative. I'm going to run my current fill out to 7,000 miles so it will be interesting to see the UOA result.

"I wonder if most are like jstandefer's experience. He had a plastic one in the trunk. If he wanted, he could put that back. "

My MS3 was delivered with a plastic cap in the glove box, but I like the anodized cap. Thanks to an error in the owners manual in some of the early cars there was some initial confusion concerning whether the MS3 motor used 5W-20 or 5W-30(5W-30 is the correct fill)- so putting the correct viscosity(oil isn't classified by "weight") on the cap should eliminate any future mistakes.

"...there was some initial confusion concerning whether the MS3 motor used 5W-20 or 5W-30(5W-30 is the correct fill)- so putting the correct viscosity(oil isn't classified by "weight") on the cap should eliminate any future mistakes."

Technically, you are correct. Viscosity is the biggest factor in an oil grade. However, the "5W" and "30" are not direct measurements of the oil's viscosity. The viscosity of the oil is measured and then converted to an SAE weight classification (the "5W" or "30") based on a conversion chart. In this case, this multi-weight oil had a weight classification (based on viscosity) of "5W" when cold, and "30" when hot. "SAE 5W-30" is the SAE weight rating for the recommended oil.

@roadburner: I guess what I'm concerned about is turbo failure because the particulate count in the oil climbs too high and clogs the turbo's filter. But, according to your analysis, it sounds like 5K mile old oil isn't all that dirty (at least in your MS3).

On my '08 MS3, the first time I pull out the dipstick, the oil reading is always below the min mark even after sitting for extended periods of time. I wipe it off and take a second reading which has always been up in normal-max range. I don't know what causes this but it happens even after a fresh oil change.

My past Nissans recommend checking oil on a warm engine, after cooling it down for at least 15 minutes. Are you supposed to check oil when the MS3 is cold?

jefe2000;

Here's the last UOA I bothered to scan and post:
http://www.carspace.com/roadburner/Albums/roadburner%27s%20Album/MS3UOA6.JPG/

"In this case, this multi-weight oil had a weight classification (based on viscosity) of "5W" when cold, and "30" when hot. "SAE 5W-30" is the SAE weight rating for the recommended oil."

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the W denotes "Winter"- not "Weight".

I guess I'm the only one here to see that this oil cap is massively huge! I can't see how the hood can close let alone not in some way block part of the headlight.

I dig the oil weight being written on the cap, that's a good idea. Hot metal under the hood that you touch with your bare hands, though...I'm surprised that slipped by the mazda guys.

Now if only someone will make a RED PLASTIC oil cap that would be cool...

"Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the W denotes "Winter"- not "Weight"."

You are correct. The SAE weight designation system uses the following codes to signify viscosity ranges: 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. When "W" is next to the code, it signifies the SAE weight rating for the oil at 40 deg C. Without "W" signifies the SAE weight rating for the oil at 100 deg C.

The SAE came up with the weight rating for motor oil to simplify viscosity categorization for the public. It was easier for people to remember they need 30 "weight" oil rather than having to know they need an oil with a viscosity of approximately 9 to 12 cSt or other units of measurement since oil refiners did not all use the same units.

I had an aftermarket billet aluminum oil fill cap on my 1997 Prelude. I rarely checked the oil after running the engine because of what Erin experienced with the hot cap. Another problem I had was actually removing the cap itself because it expanded slightly when hot which made it difficult to remove from the valve cover.

@roadburner: Thanks for posting the analysis results. Very interesting.

Also, how are you making blank lines/paragraphs in your comments? No matter how many times I hit the 'return' key and make blank lines in this text input box, my comment ends up being all smushed together into one paragraph. Thanks for the help!