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2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD: Suspension Walkaround

 2009_XC60_1600_sus_oa_f34_3.jpg 

Another Car of the Week, another Suspension Walkaround -- that's how it's supposed to go, anyway. But I've caught up to a point where many of the recent CoTW selectees have already undergone the procedure. Not so the 2010 Volvo XC60. Let's see what's going on under there.

 

 

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Looks like your basic coil-over strut suspension. But the fuzzy inner fender liner is screening a lot of the parts from view. Time to break out some tools.

 

 

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That's better. But it's still a simple coil-over MacPherson strut (yellow) and a simple L-shaped lower control arm (white).

 

 

2009_XC60_1600_sus_fr_f34larm_under.jpg 

Here's a close-up of that lower control arm and its pivot axis. The ball joint is riveted-on in three places (yellow), a design that's serviced by drilling out the rivets and replacing them with three bolts that'll be packaged with the new ball joint. It can actually be a DIY project if your garage includes a drill press.

 

 

2009_XC60_1600_sus_fr_stabstr_over.jpg 

Like we've seen on plenty of other AWD and FWD vehicles, the Volvo's steering rack (yellow) acts behind the rear axle centerline. The stabilizer bar loops overtop and connects to a long slender link (white) that connects directly to the strut housing; pretty standard stuff.

 

 

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Front braking duties are carried out by sliding calipers and ventilated rotors. So far we've not seen anything unique. Let's move to the rear.

 

 

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Now we're getting somewhere. Volvo's Ford past connection can be seen in the form of a control blade rear suspension. The tall-but-skinny blade (yellow) is a trailing link that defines the longitudinal position of the wheel but tries not to interfere with the work of the three lateral links by being slightly bendy in the lateral direction.

 

 

2009_XC60_1600_sus_rr_oaview.jpg 

There's that blade again (black), but the pivot is obscured behind another fuzzy fender liner that I decided not to remove this time. But we can also see two of the three links: the upper camber link (white) and the shadowy toe link (yellow).

 

 

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Here's a better view of the toe link (yellow). And we get our first glimpse of the main lower link (black), the one that carries the bulk of the lateral loads and shoulders the weight of the body via the coil spring that sprouts from it.

The angle of the toe link suggests that it might toe the rear wheel out when compressed, an undesirable trait in a family car because it amounts to roll oversteer. But the suspension is at full "droop" here. With the tire back on and the car on the ground, these links will get much closer to parallel, and then the shorter length of the toe link will begin to pull the outside tire in at the front as this link goes past center as the wheel compresses further, creating roll understeer. Still, the geometry looks like it might produce less of that trait than some other cars we've seen. Hard to know without blueprints and 3D models.

Meanwhile, the smaller turquoise arrows show us just how thin the control blade really is.

 

 

2009_XC60_1600_sus_rr_linkunder.jpg 

Here the main lower link (black) reveals itself to be a lightweight aluminum casting. We can also see the rear stabilizer bar (yellow) and the direct-acting lower mount of the shock absorber (white). No arrow points to the large urethane bump stopper that resides inside the coils of the spring.

 

 

2009_XC60_1600_sus_rr_brk_epkb_det.jpg 

Finally we come to the XC60's ventilated rear brake rotors, as evidenced by all of those cooling fins. They're hydraulically pinched by single-piston sliding calipers (black) in the usual way when you step on the pedal, but an electric actuator (yellow) does this job when you press a button inside to set the parking brake.

 

Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Test @ 10,861 miles

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9 Comments

fundango says:

05:11 AM, 01/27/10

"The angle of the toe link suggests that it might toe the rear wheel out when compressed, an undesirable trait in a family car because it amounts to roll oversteer."

Yeah, that would be a pretty aggressive rear suspension geometry for a SUV. Could be fun though...

throwback says:

05:38 AM, 01/27/10

Thanks for the walk around. I believe the platform for this car (and the LR2, Kuga) is based on the second generation Focus platform. Hence the use of the control blade rear set-up.

prndlol says:

07:19 AM, 01/27/10

If automotive suspensions could fight in the schoolyard, this set-up would kick the Mini-E's kindergarten butt.... fight!

crowb says:

08:52 AM, 01/27/10

Hi Dan,

Interesting about the ball joint assembly. So if I understand you right, it would take a drill press to remove those rivets and replace the ball joint assembly? It wouldn't be possible to remove those with an impact wrench or some other tool that a DIYer would have? I suppose the other options would be to use a ball joint press and just replace the ball joint or to buy a complete control arm assembly and replace the whole thing as those usually come with the ball joints already pressed in these days.

What do you think would be the best option for a shop and/or the DIYer?

I ask because I had to replace a ball joint on my wife's altima and it was a beast using the ball joint press (first time). A buddy from work helped me, but in hindsight I'd much rather have bought the whole control arm assembly and gone that route. It seemed like it would be much less of a headache.

Great write up as always. I really love these. Your suspension walk arounds gave me the confidence to try the undercar work on my personal vehicles like tie-rod ends, ball joints, brakes, and struts. I ended up saving quite a bit of money.

Thank you so much for all of the information to date.

actualsize says:

02:37 PM, 01/27/10

This type of riveted-on ball joint is made to replaced by removing the rivets and replacing them with bolts that come with the new ball joint. It car be done on the car, through the use of a sufficiently-strong air chisel and a hand drill, but you don't want to get halfway there and realize you can't follow through. I've done it on the car before, but its easier when you have the control arm on a bench, at least. The easiest way to screw up is to have the drill bit wander and egg-out the holes. For that reason a drill press is a bonus.

cah11705 says:

05:49 PM, 01/27/10

How heavy were the wheels and tires

actualsize says:

10:44 AM, 01/28/10

I know, I forgot to weigh them. I figured it out a couple of hours later, but it was raining by then.

Dan

crowb says:

01:38 PM, 01/28/10

Thanks for the follow up information, Dan.

Looking forward to the next walk around.

oachalon says:

06:55 PM, 01/28/10

dan, make the next walk around the camaro.

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