The 2009 Ford Flex sits crossways in my driveway and the right side wheels are off. Time to peek into the wheel wells to see what's going on in there.
Will we find any surprises?
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The front end is made up of standard fare: There's a coil-over strut (yellow) and a welded steel lower control arm (green). Both attach to a cast aluminum hub carrier (white) that cuts down on unsprung mass a bit.
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Here you can see the L-shaped lower control arm (yellow). It's made of two stamped steel halves that are welded together, a very common method of construction.
Like most front-wheel drive-based vehicles, the Flex has a transverse-mounted engine and transmission, and that means the steering rack (green) has to be located behind the axle centerline.
The rear control arm bushing is a large aluminum affair, and the way it's mounted makes it seem to hang in space. Here's why:
Say you hit a pothole. The upward force goes straight up into the spring and strut, but the wheel is also knocked back, and this force enters the arm at the lower ball joint (blue). The forward control arm bush fits tightly in a reinforced pocket with rubber shims on each side, so it absorbs most of the hit in the fore-aft direction. But in so doing it becomes a pivot, and that creates an in-n-out force (as opposed to a delicious hamburger) at the rear bushing, whose mounting is therefore optimized to handle forces in that direction.
Here's a close-up of the bush. The yellow arrow is pointing to a witness mark that shows where the bigger hits have been transmitting those inward forces. The bushing has a lot of rubber volume and there is a specifically engineered gap because you need a bit of give to absorb the hits to prevent harshness. The trick is not making it so gooey that it adversely affects the steering. The Flex has struck a good balance in this regard.
A high performance sports car can tolerate more harshness and needs surgically-precise steering, so you won't see the same solution on cars like that. Suspension tuning is all about managing conflicting requirements and matching the result to the intended use and customer expectations for a particular type of car.
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The Flex's front stabilizer bar runs behind the steering rack, so it must loop up and over to meet up with the link. Looks weird, but it's no problem at all.
This, however, looks a little unusual. That gap between the stabilizer bar and it's bushing does not look right. Such a gap would reduce the efficiency of the stab bar, and might lead to noise. It's either worn or the bush for a larger bar was installed by mistake. I'll look into this and post a follow-up.
We're not hearing anything though, and the Flex seems to be performing well. If they need to be replaced, this looks like an easy DIY fix, too.
The stabilizer bar link mounts directly to the strut housing, however, so the motion ratio, at least, is 1:1 for high efficiency. Note also that the strut tube is flattened somewhat in the area of the sticker for extra clearance from the wheel and tire.
Ford can do this because these are twin-tube struts. A second tube within this tube is the precision-ground chamber where the piston runs up and down, and the space between is an oil reservoir. This makes it easy to weld-on various brackets and such, but it also makes it a thermos bottle that retains heat generated inside, by the valve. That's OK for a passenger car, but it's bad for track cars and off-road trucks because excessive heat leads to foaming and fade.
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The Flex's front brakes consist of twin-piston (yellow) sliding calipers. The pins they slide on are hidden beneath the bellows (white); they need a dab of high-temperature grease inside to keep them sliding properly.
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The rear of the Flex is a multilink set-up, with an upper arm (green) and three links. The black and white ones approximate a lower arm, and the final link (yellow) handles toe control.
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This view shows that the toe link (green) is adjustable. All of the links bolt to a lightweight aluminum hub carrier/knuckle (black). A stabilizer bar (yellow) runs beneath it all.
As we've seen before, the long lower ling is spread wide (black) to serve as a lower spring mount. The upper end of the spring seats against the subframe (yellow) which in turn bolts to the body through good-sized bushings for extra isolation.
The stabilizer bar end link (yellow) and the rear shock absorber (white) both mount directly to the aluminum knuckle for maximum efficiency and precision.
The rear pivot of the rear supension's upper arm is precisely located by a pillow block that is securely bolted to the subframe.
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There's a lot of space in the middle of this tangle of links for one good reason: You can get all-wheel drive in a Flex and a rear drive axle has to fit through it all.
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The rear hubs are splined and ready for those axles. After all, why bother making two versions?
Minus points for the special Torx head bolts that locate the rear brake rotors. DIYers need to have a set of these handy.
Plus points, though, for the lug studs that have the last few threads removed to guide the nuts on without cross-threading.
Single piston sliding calipers do the work in back, and the rotors are mere solid discs. It's hard to tell from here, but that seems a bit light-duty for such a heavy people mover. Could this be why we just replaced the pads at just 25k miles? Probably not, but we're looking into it.
The big spring and cable indicate a mechanism that squeezes directly on the piston to create the parking brake function.
Our 2009 Ford Flex Limited wears P235/55R19 Hankook tires. Mounted on rims, the wheel and tire assembly weighs 55 pounds.
As you can see, these Hankooks have a 600 treadwear rating. Those numbers are so unreliable as to be about useless; we're going to come up short of 35,000 miles with these tires.
Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Testing @ 25,719 miles

joefrompa says:
10:20 AM, 06/10/09
Hey Dan,
Something I'd appreciate....can you give guidance or show how to adjust/lube a parking brake mechanism on a rear-disc car? I always see this as part of a multi-point inspection/servicing, but have never done it.
Of course, my parking brake has always worked fine. But it feels like it could be tightened a tad.
Joe
joefrompa says:
10:21 AM, 06/10/09
Btw, ever since I owned a Jeep I bought a set of torx bits. They've become alot more common, IMHO, and a single set goes a long way.
My Subaru transmission uses a Torx T-70 bit....I literally think that's the only reason for that bit's existence.
Subaru flywheel bolts, IIRC, use a Torx T-50 PLUS bit (a unique sizing as well).
WTF ever happened to just a 6-sided bolt head?
gcn says:
10:32 AM, 06/10/09
Joe,
Subaru use the T-70 to prevent quick-change oil places draining the front diff, pouring five quarts of engine oil into the engine, and sending the lucky (not!) customer on their way with an empty front diff and double filled engine.
I believe GM also use the T-70 on some front suspension or brake components.
canadaphant says:
10:44 AM, 06/10/09
Great walk around-interesting to see the focus on smoothing out the ride on one of the staff's favourite long haulers. Good to see it's holding up after your abuse, too!
joefrompa says:
11:21 AM, 06/10/09
Gcn, I understood why they use it. I was just saying that I didn't know of any other part that uses the T-70 bit...sounds like you know of some.
stovt001 says:
11:34 AM, 06/10/09
I second joe's request for a parking brake adjustment walkthrough. I think mine needs to be adjusted a bit too.
That tire and brake wear is pretty darn pathetic.
adavis2493 says:
11:38 AM, 06/10/09
Woah. For a second I thought you lived in a really bad neighborhood...
sgtroyer says:
12:16 PM, 06/10/09
I get a real kick out of these suspension walkarounds. When are you going to do the E46 M3? Even better would be an E36 M3, but you don't have one of those. Why don't you have one of those?
stephen987 says:
01:10 PM, 06/10/09
A couple of those bushings look a lot more than a year old. More like what I see under my '94 Dodge truck.
stovt001 says:
01:21 PM, 06/10/09
Adavis: Nah, there are jackstands. If this were a bad neighborhood scenario, you'd wind up with this:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25061&highlight=crime
wobbly_ears says:
01:43 PM, 06/10/09
As usual Dan, an excellent post.
BTW, can you do a suspension walkaround on the Genesis?
actualsize says:
02:12 PM, 06/10/09
@stephen987: the only bush that looks wonkly to me is the stab bar bush I pointed out. I'm going to look at it again when I have more time and see what's up.
esoterica says:
09:21 PM, 06/10/09
What's wrong with Torx? From an engineering standpoint it seems like a much better design
PBR says:
08:41 AM, 06/11/09
If there's still a gap in the front anti-roll bar bushing with the vehicle sitting on the wheels, that'd be a problem. You see that sort of thing occasionally at full droop -- not ideal, but not the end of the world either.
As for Torx, that's a much better idea for a rotor retaining bolt than the allen (hex) head VW and BMW use -- had to drill out more than one of those when they rounded off ...
actualsize says:
09:27 AM, 06/11/09
All right, I'll take it back. I see it from the engineering side, but I'm a populist when it comes to tools. I shy away from anything that smacks of a special tool that might deter the DIYer. Does every home toolbox now have Torx sockets?
vvk says:
09:31 AM, 06/11/09
Yes, Torx is much better. Those rotor bolts can be a real PITA to remove. I always use an impact screwdriver from the start, just in case.
T-70 on Subaru front diff must be a new thing. I just changed front diff oil on my 1994 Impreza -- it uses a regular 22mm bolt.
bumpy says:
11:31 AM, 06/11/09
You can pick up a rack of Torx sockets (Exx series) at the auto parts store for $5 or so, and you can use a metric box-end wrench in a pinch if you have to.
While you're at the store, those pass-through socket sets are pretty nice to have for changing struts and swaybars.
ymikey says:
11:21 AM, 06/12/09
Awesome job, Mr. Edmunds---on all of the 'Suspension Walkarounds!!!' How fantastic to get this kind of in-depth info; it's not offered anywhere else. Any possibility that this type of focus could expand to engine/transmisson components and other interesting aspects of your fleet? Hope you will consider it...
actualsize says:
11:14 PM, 06/12/09
We'd love to do more, but we can only do so much disassembly. I'm trying to secure local access to a lift so I can get these things up in the air! We're working on it.