It's time to change brake pads on our 2008 Subaru WRX STI. Thickness-wise, they might have squeaked-by for another 2,000 miles, but the low grumbling/grinding noise they've been making for the last month has been grating on us. Needless to say, they've had a hard life to this point.
Mike Magrath came over with a set of genuine replacement front brake pads for the Brembo 4-piston brakes found on our Subie. They'd cost $299.95 at our local Subaru dealer. Total damage with tax was $324.70.
As reported earlier, the rotors didn't appear to be in bad shape. Had the price been reasonable, we might have changed them anyway; they're a simple "hat" design and would have been easy to swap. But a price of $458 for just one rotor made us forget that idea in a hurry. Had we gone ahead with it, our total parts cost would have topped $1,300 before we ever turned a wrench. And that's just the front.
But the only wrenches we would turn were those needed to remove the tires. Changing pads on the STI's 4-piston fixed-caliper brakes is about as easy as it gets.
You're looking at the sum total of tools required for this job. One caliper's-worth of pads and shims is laid out, too.
Most of the time and tools are associated with jacking-up the car and removing the wheels. Our approach was to do one side at a time, so we needed just one jack stand.
After the wheel is removed, a pair of needle-nose vice grips makes easy work of the cotter pins that keep the larger pad locating pins in place. Once the cotter pins are out, the locating pins slide out with a light tap of the hammer and a little wiggling.
Work on one side of the rotor at a time so you can retract the pistons more easily -- you don't have to move as much fluid if you leave the other pad in and you don't need to buy an expensive piston retraction tool that does both sides at once. Here we're using an old pad to gently lever the pistons on one side back home so a new pad will slide in. You should start on the same side from which the locating pins slide in so they can be used to hold that first new pad and shim in place while you work on the second half, as we're doing here.
Our pad kit came with 4 tubes of Brembo's secret sauce (not it's real name), a lubricant and noise supression material. The instructions say to spread it between the pad's backing plate and the first shim, and along the sides of the backing plate, where they'll ride against the caliper body. There were 4 total tubes and 4 total pads, so we weren't bashful about how much we put on.
You can see that line of copper-colored lube along the top edge. None goes between the first and second shims, because that darker shim is a stainless steel one with a black noise supression coating baked on. After this second pad is in, the locating pins get pushed the rest of the way across (re-capturing the anti-rattle spring in the process) and the cotter pins go back in. New cotter pins come with the kit, so don't worry if you Bogart one during disassembly.
Done.
Now it's time to put the wheels on and bed them in a bit. Without considering photo time, we spent less than 10 minutes per side on this project. Had we done the rotors, too, we'd have spent 5 to 7 minutes more.
Why go with stock pads? One: we're not doing track days with this car. Two: Brembo is a premium product, not some cost-engineered standard system. Three: I've worked on the OE side, and I know about the certification tests that OE brakes are subjected to. Stock stuff is usually the more well-rounded choice for pure street use. Aftermarket pads may stop better in demanding track situations, but increased performance usually requires a trade-off in noise, dust, pad life, rotor life or some other area. Four: If the new pad's coefficient of friction is more aggressive, matching rear pads should be installed to keep the system balanced. Five: This pad is what Subaru customers will get when they take their STI in for dealer service, and we're trying to replicate that experience with our long-term cars.
The only thing we didn't take advantage of is the rumored first free brake pad change for the STI, something neither dealer we talked to spoke up about. We didn't press the issue because it was always our intention to do this as a DIY. And if you're paying this much for parts, why not save on the labor by doing it in the comfort of your own driveway?
The result? The noise is gone, the pedal feels better than it has of late and our STI bites a little harder and stops as sure as it did when new.
Finally, here's a little something for those of you who gave me grief after failing to make it abundantly clear that I torqued the lug nuts after I finished the Scion xB oil change and wheel rotation.
Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Testing @ 17,890 miles
Photographic and hand-model assistance by Mike Magrath
joefrompa says:
08:38 AM, 01/14/09
I understand your reasoning for going stock, but I figured I'd share that Hawk HPS brake pads (good for street and light track, pretty much OEM style brake pad) for the front go for about $120, and Ferodo brake pads go for about $80 for a front set.
Surprised you didn't do brake fluid as well, giving the amount of abuse this car apparently took on.
Nice job torqueing those lug nuts. One kudo for you.
Joe
jdub53084 says:
08:42 AM, 01/14/09
Ah, working on a car in your driveway.. My driveway is covered in a fresh inch of snow, and it was -5 degrees this morning. Definitely not brake job in a t-shirt weather.
Good torque wrench form !!
mlevere1992 says:
08:54 AM, 01/14/09
Hey, the Director is getting his hands dirty! (clap, clap) Props to you for doing this yourself instead of going to the dealer.
joefrompa says:
08:58 AM, 01/14/09
I did my first by myself brake job this summer on my 06 SI at 50000 miles. I couldn't believe the simplicity....
I swear that brake jobs and transmission fluid changes are some of the biggest rip offs in the business.
By the way - You don't need an expensive caliper piston retraction tool. You need a 1x4 piece of wood and a C-Clamp for the front calipers, and a rear caliper retraction tool (about $20-30) for the rear.
Joe
actualsize says:
09:00 AM, 01/14/09
If I was "tracking" the car, I'd be right with you, Joe. And I'd have flushed the system and replaced it with Motul brake fluid. As it was, the fluid level was perfect and the color hasn't turned to indicate the presence of moisture or other contamination.
It's tempting. Subaru sure wants a lot for these babies. But I've got first-hand experience with the problems associated with upgrading one end of the car while leaving the other end stock. I'd never switch to a performance-oriented front pad without changing the rears to match.
sgude says:
09:27 AM, 01/14/09
I'm not sure I get it -- you buy these spendy brake pads from the dealer, then you put them on yourself? I understand the ease of putting them on, but why buy them at the dealership? The owners of a car like the STI are more likely to source these pads aftermarket and yes, put them on. The dealership would only see me for free stuff and warranty service.
bhrama_bull says:
09:38 AM, 01/14/09
I hope you're aware that brake pads are covered under Subaru's warranty. They fall under the "Wear Item Limited Warranty" that covers the following for the first 3/36:
- brake pads
- wiper blades
- clutch linings
- transmitter batteries (for your remote entry)
You could have let Subaru pay for your pads and instead spent the money on the rotors. Just a thought. :))
bhrama_bull says:
09:40 AM, 01/14/09
Nevermind...just read the rest of the article and realized you wanted to do this as a DIY.
subytrojan says:
09:51 AM, 01/14/09
Ferodo brake pads for a WRX, and especially a WRX STI, are way more than $80. If you know of where I can get them for that price, I'll buy two--maybe three--sets of DS2500 pads immediately!
bhrama_bull, I smell what you're cooking there. The long-term STI hasn't been subjected to "normal wear and tear." Let's just say I have a really good hunch about this. That said, one of the Mikes or Dan could've pressed the dealer/stealer more about this. Also, the prices paid for the parts *are not* MSRP, but the marked up prices the dealer/stealer sells these parts at.
For example, 2007 WRX STI (Brembo) front brake pads have an MSRP of $299.95, but can be purchased online from Chaplin's Subaru in Washington for $219.56 plus S&H.
Example: 2007 WRX STI front brake pads:
http://tinyurl.com/7wxtme
joefrompa says:
09:57 AM, 01/14/09
Suby -
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/brakes-brake-pads-c-21_837_838_861.html?osCsid=06994bc5f29524e63c49c4ed81c513c5
Ferodo DS2500 pads for the STI for $90. Eat your heart out.
Actualsize - I understand the desire to avoid unwanted brake bias. The fluid on my SI at 2 years 50000 miles (alot less hard use than you've subjected yours too, but probably alot more humidity), looked ok. Until I drained it out next to fresh. I figure you've hammered on them sufficiently that it wouldn't hurt, but I'm sure brake fluid is not the weak link in your brake-line-up yet.
joefrompa says:
09:59 AM, 01/14/09
Suby - yeah, I'm blind. That says $90 for rears and $198 for fronts.
Sorry.
bhrama_bull says:
10:04 AM, 01/14/09
subytrojan: I hear you on the vehicle not being subjected to normal wear and tear, but the article did say the STI had almost 18K on the odometer. If one went to the dealer with 9,000 miles on the odometer asking for a brake pad replacement I could see the dealership trying to deny a change in parts. However, at 18,000 miles I don't see the dealership denying replacement.
I understand that warranty work probably doesn't pay the dealership much but I'm going to milk it for every dollar it's worth especially if the coverage is described very clearly in the owner's manual.
subytrojan says:
10:16 AM, 01/14/09
I've bought pads from RallySport Direct before. :o) :thumbsup:
I hear what you say, Rocky. Here's a little food for thought. I believe the STI used for the article below was the long-term STI. If that's the case, that would mean it did (hard) time at the Streets of Willow Springs and Glendora Mountain Road. I've also heard it's been on the track more than just that occasion.
Ultimate Performance Car Test: 2009 Nissan GT-R vs. the World
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=126453
So what's it like being The People's Champion? :o)
subytrojan says:
10:18 AM, 01/14/09
Joe, those pads you linked are for MY2004-2007 STIs. I'm guessing the MY2008+ pads cost more because of the bigger calipers and rotors.
boxermike says:
01:10 PM, 01/14/09
Photos and grunt work by me.
-mike
MS3lvr92 says:
08:59 PM, 01/14/09
Yes! I love "The Dan Edmunds' DIY" posts. I enjoy reading about experiences with servicing the cars.
estreka says:
12:35 AM, 01/18/09
Maybe it's just me, but that pricetag seems awfully high. I know I didn't spend that much when I replaced my Wilwoods. It was over 2 years ago, but I think I paid a pinch over $100 for all 8 pads. Is there something special about 4-piston brake pads?
And Joe's absolutely right about brake jobs being a ripoff. But knowledge is money and money is power.